Textiles have been part of the fabric of human history for over 100,000 years, as early as the Paleolithic era. Since then, thanks to the ever-quickening pace of technology, there have been frequent innovations in how fabrics are made and the materials from which they are made.

But Alice Stella Thomas-Kelsey, known by her label Stella Thomas Designs, is bringing textile artistry back to its roots with her latest collection; it’s set to grace the Western Design Conference and runway show in Jackson, Wyoming, starting Sept. 7.  

“There is amazing stuff here in Oklahoma,” says Thomas-Kelsey. “I’m glad to represent Oklahoma and what we can do.”

Thomas-Kelsey, a fashion designer for over three decades, has a prolific resume of accomplishments. Notable among them are working with fashion houses like Vera Wang, Jimmy Choo and Carolina Herrera, and even collaborating with the Queen of Thailand on a fashion show. 

In the past, her medium of choice was primarily silk. But five years ago, her career pivoted when she noticed her neighbor had a sheep farm near her home in Stillwater. She was inspired by seeing tufts of wool stuck on a fence and began experimenting with wool. One of her earliest pieces was a 10-by-10 hanging wall piece. 

“Sheep are amazing, beautiful animals,” says Thomas-Kelsey. “They require shearing; it makes them happy.” Thomas-Kelsey notes that on every sheep, there are 6-7 pounds of wool. In warmer months, without shearing, that amount of wool on their bodies can cause them to overheat and make them susceptible to disease and infection.

Considering that shearing doesn’t harm the sheep, as the process is similar to shaving in humans, buying and transforming the wool into beautiful pieces of art only helps the farmer and the wooly animal alike.

Felt in the Heart

When Thomas-Kelsey receives the wool — whether from her neighbor around the corner or from Austria, Ireland or Scotland — she begins by cleaning and sorting what she receives. 

Not all sheep are the same, of course; quality varies by breed, and some farmers are breeding the animal for meat, not for their wool, which can make a drastic difference. While she primarily sources from sheep, Thomas-Kelsey has also worked with alpaca and llama wool. 

At this point, she decides if she’ll be dyeing the wool with vibrant jewel tones, like a bright orange or deep amethyst, or leaving it in its natural color palette. After sorting, cleaning and potentially dyeing the wool, Thomas-Kelsey works on one piece for two to four weeks. This allows her to put her “full effort, heart and soul” into it, using her hands and water to felt the fibers.

Felt is the byproduct of manually manipulating strands of a given fiber to mat them together. After enough time physically agitating the filaments of the material, they will eventually fuse to create one cohesive piece of felted fabric. 

With wool and felt as her primary medium, Thomas-Kelsey has completed almost every imaginable textile category — including headboards, wall tapestries, rugs, bedcovers, hats, ponchos and capes. She’s also not left her roots in bridal couture behind, having designed bridal pieces using her felting process. 

New Territory

Thomas-Kelsey is embarking on new territory for Stella Thomas Designs by attending the Western Design Conference in Jackson. This exhibition is her first foray into being a featured artist at a prestigious Western design expo, and she’s already made a remarkable impact. 

Stella Thomas Designs was invited to be one of the selected labels at the exclusive runway show Sept. 7. Her runway presentation includes a jacket, cape, skirt, coat and some surprises exclusively made for the conference. 

Thomas-Kelsey is honored to be a part of the fashion show because she knows how important it can be for clients. She intentionally selects models ranging from size 8 to 14 to help show prospective buyers how her pieces drape on different body types.

“I always say to try it on and see how you feel,” says Thomas-Kelsey about her wool fashions and wearable art. She said that selecting models representative of an average person helps individuals be assured that they would be able to wear a piece with confidence. 

But even beyond their immediate couture allure, Stella Thomas Designs’ wool fashions possessed a rare quality: they were made to last. A wool garment is a powerhouse textile that keeps the wearer warm and absorbs moisture, requiring minimal care besides allowing it to air dry. A fur coat that gets wet, in contrast, will likely need to be taken to a furrier to receive a proper care treatment.

“Unlike furs, fleece lasts forever,” says Thomas-Kelsey. “It’s a piece you can hand over to your daughter or granddaughter if you take care of it.” 

Stella Thomas Designs’ wool pieces are intended to be more than mere fashion statements. Thomas-Kelsey aims to create future heirlooms, destined to be cherished and passed down through generations. •

To learn more about Stella Thomas Designs or to inquire about Thomas-Kelsey’s art, visit stellathomas.com