Things We Love: Estate Jewelry
From Local to Legendary
SAPPHIRE, EMERALD, RUBY & DIAMOND JABOT PIN, 1930s
part of the Mountbatten estate auction
It’s sometimes said that everything has a story, and jewelry is certainly no exception. Lonnie Iannazzo of Tulsa’s Vincent Anthony Jewelers has been privy to those sweet stories for years. “I had a customer who brought in a ring that belonged to her grandmother,” Iannazzo remembers. “She shared the story of when she was a young girl sitting on her grandmother’s lap and how she always played with the ring. Now it is hers, and we sized it so she can wear it. I love being a part of that connection and continuing the story of a piece of jewelry.”
If you have a piece or two of jewelry that someone handed down to you, then you own estate jewelry. The term simply means a piece that was previously owned, regardless of age and whether the owner is living or deceased. While Iannazzo said that many people associate estate jewelry with the Art Deco pieces of the 1920s and ’30s—feminine with lace detail and filigree—he’s beginning to see some of the more streamlined pieces that were popular in the 1980s come into his store.
“The thing about most jewelry is that it can live for quite a long time, whether a piece is passed down to someone or elements of a piece are used to create something new,” says Coleman Clark, president of Oklahoma City’s BC Clark Jewelers.
The journey to discovering the value of estate jewelry begins with sitting down and looking at the piece or pieces. “We’ve gone through many jewelry boxes with customers, helping them learn what is valuable and what is costume,” Iannazzo says. “We can help them create something new and unique to them, while continuing to share the story and keep the sentimental value of the original piece, because there is no harm in making an item your own.”
“Someone may not see themselves wearing an ’80s style ring, but taking the stones and creating something new, it gives the piece new meaning,” says Clark.
LONNIE IANNAZZO
But just because a piece is classified as estate, doesn’t mean the quality is necessarily better. “The diamond cut being used now as opposed to 100 years ago is superior,” says Iannazzo. He adds the cut back then was referred to as a “mine cut,” described as somewhat crude and not actually round. The 1940s cut, aka the European cut, was better—but is still not as brilliant as today’s diamonds. Also, more often side diamonds of the same era were single-cut with only 17 facets where the modern diamond has 58, so today’s side stones have a bit more scintillation or sparkle. As for the actual jewelry making process, the way something is created today is still technically very similar to those pieces from decades ago.
When someone wants to redesign or personalize an estate piece, Clark said his staff lets the customer guide the process. People often arrive armed with ideas from magazines, photos they’ve seen or even ideas gleaned from Pinterest. But if they don’t have ideas, the staff at BC Clark loves to help brainstorm what can be created.
“That’s where the journey of a new piece begins,” Clark says. After discussing ideas, CAD drawings are created so the customer can see what the pieces will look like. “The most common thing we do is take a diamond out of a piece to make something new. For example, if a ring has several diamonds, we might remove the larger diamond and create a new ring, and take smaller diamonds and place them on a chain to make a great layering necklace. That inherited piece has then become something that is wearable and meaningful.”
It turns out that as many people used quarantine time to declutter their homes, they also spent time going through their jewelry. Both Iannazzo and Clark saw an increase in customers bringing in pieces they no longer wear. “We definitely had a few full jewelry boxes come in,” adds Iannazzo.
COLEMAN CLARK
The search for estate jewelry is also gaining in popularity, whether a particular period piece or jewels from a major design house like Tiffany or Cartier. Luxury watches are also popular with collectors. “A Rolex can last for decades if it is serviced properly,” says Clark.
If you’ve ever sorted through the belongings of an older relative, chances are you’ve come across a piece that brings back a memory or two. “Someone might come across a ring in a drawer and the memories of the person who wore it come back the minute you see it,” says Clark. Iannazzo said he loves to see jewelry handed down before the original owner passes away. “Then the original owner gets to see the piece getting a new life and seeing the next generation enjoy it.”
While he helps people with their estate jewelry, Iannazzo also has some of his own; his wedding ring includes a diamond that belonged to his grandfather. “There were three diamonds in his ring, so my two brothers and I each have one. It’s very special to me, because every time I look at it, I’m reminded of my grandfather.”
Estate Jewelry Ne Plus Ultra: Royal Treasures of the Mountbattens
Something spectacular happened in London in March: The family jewelry collection of Patricia Knatchbull, 2nd Countess Mountbatten of Burma—incredible estate jewelry to say the least—was auctioned by Sotheby’s. Fans of “The Crown” will recognize the name.
In a bit of a frenzy, bidding soared as 1,400 bidders from 55 countries competed for a marathon 11 hours, ultimately tripling the presale estimate. All told, these precious estate pieces garnered $7.7 million.
“An auction (such as this) … with its heady mix of history and glamour, does not come up very often, and so it has been a truly special experience to be a part of … it has been wonderful to see Lady Mountbatten’s collection received so rapturously by people from all over the world … a fitting tribute to her legacy of courage, grace and, above all, warmth,” said David Macdonald, Sotheby’s Specialist and Head of the Sale.
The eldest daughter of Britain’s last Viceroy of India Louis Mountbatten, Patricia Knatchbull was the great-great-granddaughter of Queen Victoria, great-niece of Russia’s last Tsarina and first cousin to Prince Philip, living her eminent life at the heart of a dazzling dynasty of royal and political relations.
The 376 items sold at auction in March came from Newhouse, the charming 18th-century home, which Patricia shared with her husband John Knatchbull, 7th Lord Brabourne.
These pieces are a marvel. We couldn’t bear not to share images of some of the most exquisite among them with you.
The ‘Banks diamond’ pendant/brooch — A late 18th century brooch with a cushion-shaped yellow diamond given to explorer and botanist Joseph Banks by his eccentric sister Sarah around the time of his marriage in 1779.
A charming Lacloche Frères pig-shaped evening bag, crafted circa 1905 — the eyes set with cabochon rubies and the tail and trotters set with rose-cut diamonds.
Diamond necklace/tiara — Designed circa 1880 as a garland of ivy leaves, set with 10-14 carats of cushion-shaped and rose-cut diamonds. Screw fittings to enable it to be worn as a tiara.
Hardstone, enamel and diamond pendant designed by Robert Phillips, circa 1878 — Possibly commissioned by Queen Victoria to commemorate the death of Princess Alice of the United Kingdom, the Grand Duchess of Hesse and by Rhine from 1877 to 1878, the third child and second daughter of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.