Copenhagen is the kind of city that subtly spoils you. At Christmastime, it glows with candlelit holiday markets and merriment in the city center; in spring and summer, locals slip into the harbor for brisk swims before biking off in a Nordic uniform of chic layers, still dripping from the dip. Like its signature Scandinavian aesthetic, Copenhagen is sophisticated without trying—design-obsessed but deeply livable.

On a trip this past December, the daylight hours were short, but full of experiences worth savoring. Here, we found a city with pastries that weren’t just breakfast or dessert, but a daily devotion, and with more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other in Scandinavia. 

On a five-day trip, expect equal parts indulgence, inspiration and that sneaking feeling that you’ve landed in a city that’s somehow operating at a slightly higher frequency than the rest of the world.

The best part of Copenhagen is wandering around it in the name of delicious discovery, but if you need a bit of inspiration, the spots below make for a great place to start. 

Cardamom buns at Hart’s Baggeri

For Pastries

First things first: when in Copenhagen, your first order of business is to track down a cardamom bun—ideally one a day. (At least. Accept your fate and lean into life!)

Juno the Bakery
Copenhagen is renowned for the cardamom bun (or as I’ve affectionately started calling them, Cardi Bs). Ask any local connoisseur where to find the best one, and Juno the Bakery is guaranteed to top the list. Its are world famous and always attract a line. So, even if you have to walk to Juno before the 9 a.m. sun comes up, even if you have to wait in drizzly rain, tucked under an umbrella while the tantalizing aroma of fragrant, spiced Scandi pastries curls in the air, teasing you while you wait for the shop doors to open—do it. One bite of its saffron bun, its delectable laminated pastries and, of course, its must-taste Cardi B, and you’ll understand why.  

Hart Baggeri
Named for famed former Tartine baker Richard Hart, who founded the bakery after escaping to Copenhagen from San Francisco, Hart’s cardamom buns are a must-stop on any Copenhagen tour (thankfully, there are multiple Hart locations around the city). Opened with support from culinary icon Rene Redzepi of Noma, Hart is widely regarded as one of Copenhagen’s most esteemed, culinary-clouted, delicious bakeries. For a truly standout bite, taste the twice baked cardamom bun. 

Other honorable mention baggeris include Alice, Andersen & Maillaird and Rug Bakery. Plot out your own tasting tour and see what hits!

For the Stay

The One Hotel 
While on a full Copenhagen itinerary, great accommodations are a must. Thankfully, there’s The One Hotel.  

No matter the city you find it in, there’s so much to love about a One Hotel—be it the iconic scent piped through the premise, the nature-inspired design, the lobby bars absolutely dripping with vibes, the banquet-style breakfast spread that could give many of Copenhagen’s gastronomically acclaimed restaurants a run for their stars, the complimentary cardamom hot chocolate served throughout the day or the ambient background music that lulls you into relaxation. Copenhagen’s One Hotel is centrally located on Stroget Street, just a short walk away from some of the city’s best shopping and dining. Don’t feel like hoofing it? Grab one of the hotel’s complimentary bikes and spend the day touring on two wheels. 

Drinks at bird.

For Drinks

Laban Wine Bar
Rustic Laban Wine Bar in the Vesteboro neighborhood is as cozy as they come. Warm with soft lighting and plenty of wide tables to tuck around, it’s the perfect place to fall into after a day of sightseeing before an early dinner with friends. It’s known for a deep list of natural wines, so you’ll have plenty to taste over an hour or two while you stave off the jet lag.  

bird.
For a vibey cocktail in a low-lit lounge, grab a table at bird., a lo-fi listening room slinging martinis and records all night. The interiors are simple, sleek and evocative of Nordic warmth and sophistication—warm woods, the low hum of vinyl in the background and an impressive spread of signature martinis and negronis. With two locations in Copenhagen, the stylish birds (downtown and uptown) are tough to get into without a reservation, so be sure to call ahead. 

Ambra
For something a little less Nordic, a lot more opulent, slide into happy hour at Ambra. This Italian spot in Indre By (translation: City Centre) has strikingly high ceilings, shareable Napoletana-style pizzas cut with table-side scissors, an extremely Instagrammy bathroom and a White Star Wine List designation … all the makings of a delightfully elevated but unstuffy aperitivo hour. 

Kodbyens Fiskebar
Fiskebar leans into surprise: a raw bar in a meatpacking district, an old warehouse turned restaurant that feels surprisingly chic and yet another selfie-worthy bathroom that doubles as an immersive experience. With all this and fresh seafood caught from the Nordic waters nearby, and a Bib Gourmand designation from the Michelin Guide, Fiske is more than worth a visit for happy hour. Widely respected as one of the seminal restaurants responsible for kickstarting Copenhagen’s recognition as a culinary mecca, Fiske is considered essential dining in the city. Stop by around 3 p.m. and enjoy a crisp white, a dozen oysters and the last lights of golden hour. 

For Dinner

Barr
As impossible as it’d seem to pick a favorite meal in Copenhagen, Barr made it easy. Much as we would’ve liked to pop into Noma or Alchemist on this trip, shockingly, they were booked! As an alternative, we grabbed a reservation at Barr, which gave us just enough of an elevated experience to scratch our fine dining itch.

Expect gold stars across food, ambiance and hospitality, and an hours-long dinner with zero pressure to hustle out. If you’re open to it, put the fate of your order in your server’s hands; expect curation, curiosity and excellent “bedside.” From the moment our sly server greeted us, to the mental gymnastics he performed to make recommendations that accounted for the competing allergies and preferences of our party, to the homemade limoncello he treated us to at the end of the meal, the hospitality at Barr is as delectable as the food itself. 

As for the dishes, standouts include the beef tartare, the pork chop and the schnitzel, but lean into the experience and let your server suggest a few paths for exploration. 

Dinner at Barr

Baest
Many Danes will say this is the Baest pizza in town, and I’m inclined to believe them. The sourdough crust is pillowy, the cheese and charcuterie on the charcuterie board are homemade and if you’re ever feeling a little touch of nostalgia or homesickness for the States, a large painting of Obama looms lovingly nearby to keep you company. If you’re not in a hurry (and you probably won’t be, given the hourlong average wait for a table) swing by Baest’s sister restaurant Mirabelle next door to sample its homemade sourdough. 

Gasoline Grill
With its state-wide focus on beef and dairy production, some might say Oklahoma has all but perfected the burger. So color me surprised to discover that the best I’ve ever tasted doesn’t hail from anywhere near Tulsa, but rather, from a shack inside an amusement park called Gasoline Grill.

If it’s true that the ingredients make a burger, perhaps none better exemplify this than GG’s butterburger. It’s made with 100% organic beef, hand-ground in house daily and topped with locally made cheese and butter, nestled on a housemade potato bun griddled to golden perfection. Our group ordered two to share, then promptly ordered two more. But don’t just take our word for it; Dua Lipa and Bloomberg named Gasoline among their favorite burgers, too!

For Exploring
With all that eating, you’re going to want to get your steps in. Copenhagen is a beautifully walkable city—and truthfully, there’s something cathartic about a mid-morning walk in the dark. Once the Nordic sun makes its arrival, time to set your sights on shopping. Collector’s Cage is a must-stop for fans of premium vintage and second-hand designer bags, and Astrid Andersen, Ganni, Brand Space Studio and Boii Studios will tempt you with outfits to match. 

Need some quiet time? New Mags bookshop is stacked with high-end coffee table books, limited edition magazines, architectural tomes and travelogue paperbacks, all served up in a minimalist, Scandinavian-chic shop. Pop in, find a book to thumb through and recharge before your evening plans. 

After a day spent taking in the iconic canals and colorful homes at Nyhavn, spend the evening at Tivoli Gardens, the iconic amusement park located smack dab in the city center. If you’re lucky enough to visit around Christmastime, you’ll see the picturesque park decked out in Christmas lights and holiday markets. Yet even without the merriment, Tivoli is packed with charm and nostalgia. Opened in 1843, Tiovli is the second oldest amusement park in the world, and the inspiration that sparked Walt Disney’s creation of Disneyland. A century and a half hasn’t compromised a bit of Tivoli’s magic, but the park now boasts over 30 rides that sit somewhere on a spectrum between charming and thrilling. The Daemon Coaster is chief among them, which one coaster head in our group described as an attraction that “rides like Wes Anderson decided to design a roller coaster.” 

Need a change of pace? CopenHot is a Scandi-inspired sauna park with hot tubs, saunas and cold plunges, perfect for resting tired bones. Of course, Malmo, Sweden, is a quick 20-minute train ride away, too—but who needs another country on the itinerary? With all this and more to see, a few days in Copenhagen is hardly enough.  

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